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Sorry it took so long to respond. Just saw your post. Usually pull kids 16 -20mph. Around 25, with no ballast, the wake cleans up nicely. But that’s just too fast for wakeboarding. Throughout this summer I’ve identified that center trim plate doesn’t always return to ‘fully retracted’. Sometimes it stays about 3/4” deployed and I have to run it down a little then back up to get it all the way up. That has definitely helped, but the major contributor is the FAE and I’m still looking for a solution to that. Considering having a buddy get creative with a new shaped plate. I’ll report back if that dream ever becomes a reality.

I wouldn't add a wake shaper since you already have surf tabs, unless someone else has had success on the F24. You might call the boat shack and see what they suggest. I think they have sold a few F24's. I would recommend using plug-and-play bags as my next step, then optimizing the steel shot by moving it around. Play with your speed as well.

Thanks- I added 550 steel shot and it got bigger. I think I need to double that and spread it out. Might be easier to add a plug and play bags on top of my hard tanks. Also thinking about a wave shaper. What’s everyone like for those?

Have you tried running a wave maker on the side of the boat?

Is the wave clean or mushy? If it's a bit mushy I would try adding a wake shaper to that boat. Are you using center cav plate when making the wave? 24 is a big boat and will want weight to help sink it down. Generally weight near the back (transom) will generate push and a taller wave. Weight towards the front will help lengthen the wave. I would start with adding more weight near the transom and on the side you're trying to get the wave on.

I ordered the same strainer this week. I've always been concerned with the stock strainer and the cheap plastic fittings on it. One of them breaks and there's no way to shut it off. I was wondering if the thru hull was threaded, but looks like it is! I guess I need to head to the hardware store.

I replaced the stock strainer with an Indmar Strainer Pro with the built-in flush kit and the install took about 10 minutes. I noticed there isn’t a seacock on the intake hose and I’m wondering what’s the better option to add, an in-line or one with a flange style Brass Intake Strainer? The goal is to be able to shut it off when running on a hose for maintenance or winterizing.

I have a 2021 B52 23 and run 500 lbs of steel shot in bags. We surf at 11.2, everything full, no center tab. The F24 is a lot bigger boat, I would load it up with lead/steel. I would start with 150lb or 200 in both back corners(as far back as you can get it, 150 each side mid ship, and 200-300 in the nose. Just my 2 cents. You can move it around to see how it impacts the wave

i have a 2014 f24 with gsa, i run 1100 in the back locker, hard tanks full and i run 300lb of lead in the front and another 300lb bag, boat needs bow weight, , i still list it a bit, but i agree the face of the wave is not glass, i think it from the front pickle fork, causes more froth, wave is long and steep. we run around 11.4-11.6mph

Need help from experts. I bought a damage Boat w/ several fiber issues and the engine (raptor 400) was under the water (dont know for how long) i already fix the fiber Glass and start the engine (after change the Oil) and the engine runs fine, crack and start a few times for a few seconds and i stoped since was a dry start. After a week i crank again and start after several crank attempts, i stop the engine and one week later i moved the boat to a place w i can Connect a water hose try to start (prior to open the water hose) it in order to run it for a longer period of time but the boat crank but dosent start, during cranking the rpm shows no movement at all i am checking the ckp since i think the ecm isnt get the sync of the start Any other suggestions or ideas to check are more than welcome, i am from out of USA and no indmar services in my country a

Side note it’s a 2021

My f24 is sexy. Love it. But I’m a big guy and with both sides and bow tank full I still don’t get enough push to keep me going. I fall back out of it. Where should I place lead sacks to get more push.

Is the bag taking longer to drain than the hard tank? Sometimes there can be a flap of bag that is inside of it that can get stuck in the drain port. You would need to remove the bag from the connection on top of the hard tank and look and see if anything is blocking.

Hey dudes, Have a strange issue with my left locker. 2016 B52. When trying to drain the locker, I open the gates and straight going. The right light drains as it should, but the left one gets stuck with the locker bag at about 50%. If I oprn/close the gate nothing changes. I have to stop, kill the battery for a couple mins, back on and repeat and she drains? I know that the rear gate only opens about 75% (been meaning to address that) but I can't see how that would stop it from full draining. Any ideas?

ACME. I got it from Wakemakers. $75

Thanks for the reply. What brand is yours?

Hello! I’m also in need of a dealer code, where can I find this? The batteries died the other day and now none of the surf system is working. When reviewing the manual, it shows the dealer options are to enable and disable the surf system— assuming that’s the issue. Thanks for the help!

I use a harmonic prop puller tool and it works pretty well.

Hi, I have a 2018 mb f22 with indmar raptor 400. 210 hours. My catalytic converter substrate (honeycomb) is completely gone (for I don’t know how long) at least the past 20 hours, probably longer. I can cruise and wakeboard all day and often surf without an issue. however, on our last trip while surfing or pulling someone on a tube and trying to whip them I’d get a code SPN 4238 FMI 0, which I discovered is “Closed loop gasoline bank 2 high”. the code clears if I reset batteries, and will return if I run it under a weighted load at high RPM (again). I’m uncertain if the bad (absent) catalytics are causing the code to flash or if it’s something else. I replaced the O2 sensor on the stbd side but haven’t tested it yet. Thing is, it’s very intermittent anyways. Anyone experience something similar. I read an indmar bulletin stating bad cats will not affect fuel consumption or performance so I’m inclined to leave them alone.

One of MBs best color combos imho.

Subject: Trouble Removing Prop w/ OJ Puller – Found Success with Pro‑Pull; Thoughts on Rebuilt vs New Props? Hello fellow B52 owners, I ran into a perplexing issue while attempting to remove my prop and wanted to share the details, gather opinions, and seek advice: Issue Timeline: Initial discovery: Noticed a couple of minor dings on the prop blades while drying the boat after a trip. First attempt: Used my OJ prop puller kit—with spare nut, keyway, cotter pin, and double-ended wrench—but despite nearly an hour of effort, the puller couldn’t fit between the prop and the shaft support. Modification attempt: Took the puller home and ground it down to increase clearance. Returned the following weekend for another D.I.Y. session—again, no luck getting it to fit. Dealer intervention: A local dealer tried multiple pullers before finally using a Pro‑Pull unit that fit and removed the prop successfully (see attached image). They then installed a refurbished replacement prop I had purchased from them. Aftermath: On the lake the next day, I started experiencing a vibration upon takeoff that wasn’t present before—though the prop seems fine underway. Suspected cause of original dings: My Boat Mate trailer’s ratchet-style tie-downs—all signs point to the hook or strap making contact with the prop. Questions for the community: What prop puller tools are you using successfully? Have any of you experienced the same clearance issue? Do you have a trusted alternative to the Pro‑Pull that offers greater versatility or better fit in tight spaces? Regarding refurbished props—especially for a 2023 B52 Alpha 23 with the 440, prop spec 2277—have they been as reliable as new ones for you? Worth the savings? Ever had a vibration issue after installing a “like-new” replacement prop? Might this be alignment, balance, or something else entirely? Boat Specs for context: Model: 2023 B52 Alpha 23 (440) Prop: 2277 (refurbished; replaced original four‑blade) Thanks in advance for any input! Looking to prevent this hassle in future service or field repairs.

I have a 2020 MB B52. My cabin speakers aren’t putting out any music, but my tower speakers are working fine. I checked the fuses on the amp and they’re fine. Any ideas?

That's a bummer. Hopefully, the repair restored that area. When I spoke to ACME about the 15.5, they said gelcoat burn should not be a problem on the 400/440, but the 575 was too powerful and it would likely be an issue. I run the 400 so I think it would be okay on mine, but I am sticking with the 15" 3065 for my altitude. It is very smooth and the more I learn to optimize the boat, weight and wave, it works fine so I will probably try to sell the 3611.

Hey everyone I am new to the MB team just bought my boat last weekend, I was wondering if if there was any way to clean up the surf wave more. The set up I was running for the weekend end was GSA surf tabs 750 in both rear locker 100% stb stock full and 60% port ballast with 500lbs in bow. It was a long wave with pretty good push but was very clean and was choppy in the pocket.. water was almost like glass. Just wondering if there could be something I was doing wrong

I run the 15.5 with my 575 motor in my B52 Alpha, and I have worn through the gel coat completely, requiring me to fill the area. Make sure you keep an eye on it. I know others have attached a flat stainless steel plate.